Attire-moi! --- Stephanie's: Voyages

Pearl on the Pacific Ocean --- Hawaii

Wed, 16 Jul 2008 01:23:04 GMT

自夏威夷歸來已一週。一回來隔天期中考，緊鑼密鼓的課程一波又一波，後天又第二次期中考。想找個時間好好書寫夏威夷似乎有點難。無論如何，還是想寫點東西，推薦大家到熱帶天堂夏威夷。夏威夷的陽光，空氣，水，沙灘令人難忘。而且不知道為什麼，明明是熱帶地方，溫暖潮溼容易滋生蚊蟲，但我很少竟然很少看到小蟲和蚊子，可見夏威夷整個城市基本上是很努力維持乾淨舒服的環境。

夏威夷一共有八個島，分別為 Kauai, O'ahu, Ni'ihau, Molokai, Maui, Lanai, Kaho'loawe, Hawai'i, 最出名的島是歐胡島 (Oahu)，也就是首都 Honolulu（檀香山）所在地。夏威夷群島是全世界最疏離的島群之一，距最近的陸地有 2500 英哩之遠。夏威夷群島上擁有許多火山群，但已是死火山，目前有只有Maui 島上的 Haleakala National Park 的火山是休火山，上次火山爆發是十八世紀末的事情。夏威夷在1900年已是美國領土，1959年正式成為美國第五十州，當時Honolulu 上大約有75% 的日裔移民。

從洛杉磯出發直飛夏威夷約五個半小時，從夏威夷飛回來要六個小時（不過感覺很快，我一上飛機沒多久就睡著了）。抵達Honolulu 之後我們轉搭小飛機飛往 Maui 島，也就是夏威夷群島的第二大島。Mommy 和 Daddy 以前曾在夏威夷住過一陣子，覺得Maui 比Honolulu 有趣，觀光客也較少一點，因此我們和一般人的行程不一樣，先跳過首都，從Maui 開始。

我們的行程另一個不同點是我們沒住飯店，而是住在Kihei 的condo，隔一條馬路便是沙灘和太平洋，地點非常好。Condo 和飯店不一樣之處是沒有clean lady每天打掃，房間有吸塵器和掃帚，髒了自己掃，因此價格便宜很多。但價格便宜並不代表滿意度也下降，事實上我反而非常enjoy 住在condo，像住自己家一樣。有兩個房間，冰箱，烤箱，微波爐，廚房，洗衣機，洗碗機，電視，DVD player, 陽台有傢具（Daddy 最愛坐在陽台，遠眺太平洋，聽海浪聲）。廚房的設計就像吧台，可一邊做菜一邊從落地窗向外看夕陽，非常具生活情調。第一天晚上我們自己立刻到當地的supermarket 買食材做早餐和晚餐，省了不少錢。順帶一提，夏威夷物價超貴，一瓶一加侖的牛奶竟將近七元美金。街上不起眼的 cafe 店每道餐點平均十元起跳，因此我們四人上館子的話一頓六七十元美金很正常（台幣約2000元）。在condo 自己弄餐點既經濟又溫馨，全家一起用餐，感覺就像在家裡一樣，渡假度的輕鬆又舒服。我不好意思地承認，這幾天的晚餐都是Richard 在張羅，而Mommy 則忙著準備水果。至於我和 Daddy, 一個往往在睡懶覺，一個在聽海浪聲和看來往的路人。

夏威夷當地的食物我沒怎麼特別去嚐，只是有一天經過沙灘公園，看到一群當地人在烤乳豬，乍看之下很gross, Daddy 立即道；Stephanie，你不是想看當地食物嗎？這就是了！然後Daddy 跑去與他們搭訕，一聊才知烤一隻乳豬竟要八小時。（見照片）

除了陽光沙灘之外，夏威夷最令我難忘的是多汁又甜的熱帶水果，例如鳳梨，芒果，木瓜等等。第一天買來吃過，立即著迷，每天經過水果攤或超級市場，我們都要在多買幾個回家當點心。夏威夷的水果使我懷念起台灣水果，一樣好吃。洛杉磯的水果品質已經是全美之冠了，但跟夏威夷的熱帶水果比又差的遠了。

我們在茂宜島（Maui）待四天，划獨木舟，看火山國家公園，參觀歷史古城。第一天去划獨木舟，我門連救生衣都沒穿就出海，可見海浪之平靜。海水非常非常清澈乾淨，划到海中，低頭一看便可見到水中的珊瑚礁，海龜，魚等等生物，夏威夷環境保護做得之好令人驚嘆。同船的一位隊友甚至直接潛下水中看個夠再浮上來歸隊。最刺激的部份是出航或歸航時遇到海浪，幸運時乘著海浪出航，運氣差點就被海浪打得全身溼透，但與海浪奮鬥結果仍是非常過癮。

我和Richard 最常做的事情便是夕陽日落時手牽手在Kihei 海邊散步。市政府在一些沙灘地點旁設有公園，有些小朋友在打球或放風箏，此外在岸邊也有座椅，供行人散步累了坐下來觀海沈思。入夜了也沒有蚊蟲叮咬人，因此非常適合朋友或情人一起散步。即使在夜間，也可遠眺 Maui 島的另一個歷史城市Lahaina的燈火。Moby Dick 的作者Herman Melville 曾在居住，激發靈感撰寫這本十九世紀美國文學名著。

最後一天我們在Honolulu 短暫停留一天，先去看Pearl Harbor（珍珠港），下午到Manualua Bay和最著名的 Waikiki Beach。我對珍珠港其實印象很深刻，尤其是參觀USS Bowfin Submarine (潛水艇)之後。這艘大型潛水艇在二次大戰扮演重要角色，體積約有10,000 square foot。一走下去，便聞到機器的氣味和化學物質的氣味，如此stuffy 的味道以及看不到自然光，整個感覺非常depressing, 我無法想像自己當一名海軍在潛水艇中渡過幾個月。而且如果發現敵軍似乎注意要追蹤，攻擊潛水艇的話，船上所有的機器都要立刻全部關閉，以免發出任何聲音，包括空調，在如此密閉不通風的空間沒有空調的話，日子之難過可想而知，二次大戰時期海軍的海上生活之苦若沒有經驗過難以體會。整艘潛水挺可容納八十名海軍，但只有30 個床，換句話說，大家輪流睡在非常狹小又跼促的床上，其餘清醒的人隨時操作機器，注意海上動靜，時間到了再去叫醒睡覺的人輪班。

Pearl Harbor 免費放映二次大戰日軍偷襲珍珠港紀錄片，影片欣賞之後，遊客乘船至Arizona Memorial，為在偷襲中喪生的美軍致敬。Arizona Memorial 設計的很好，建立在一艘沈船上，設計師導入開放的空間與自然光，營造肅穆又有美感的空間，就算對美軍沒興趣，光是去參觀其建築也值得。

在夏威夷，會讓人感覺到這是一個介於東方與西方的城市，儘管標語都是英文，美國本土大型連鎖店（速食，傢具，超級市場等）都在夏威夷有分店，但還是讓人感覺到夏威夷和美國本土不太一樣，有很多東方文化的影子，尤其是日本。檀香山有非常多日本人，隨時可聽到日語，看到日本料理店，有些地點甚至讓人有錯覺好像在日本。Richard 開玩笑地道夏威夷是美國的第三世界國家版，和美國其他大都市比起來，夏威夷人做事很沒效率，悠閒地慢慢地，機場老舊設計不貼心，指引不清楚，Daddy 也抱怨道夏威夷每年接待這麼多觀光客卻怎麼都沒改進。當我們在一條彎曲的山路開車時，我們非常小心速度放慢，因為太彎曲，看不到前方是否有來車，但是夏威夷當地人開車卻非常快，絲毫不擔心轉彎是否太快容易發生事故，反而是外地觀光客比較小心，有禮貌地互讓。

夏威夷是熱帶天堂，終年氣候溫暖宜人，都在攝氏30 ~ 20度之間，但也就是太舒服了，整天享受陽光沙灘棕櫚樹，容易令人喪失鬥志。因為一回洛杉磯隔天便要考試，我還帶日文書去看，希望有空複習一下，但是結果我都在吃吃喝喝，觀看水上活動和欣賞夕陽，我穿了比基尼到海灘戲水，坐下來時只想看不用大腦的時尚雜誌，整趟旅程完全沒有動力想用腦。還是回北方好，冷一點，頭腦清醒一點。

Sequoia National Park

Tue, 04 Sep 2007 03:12:12 GMT

The update has been delayed for a week, as I started to prepare moving to Chicago (moving is a pain...). This vacation was a perfect break for me. I totally relaxed over there and soon after I came back, I was full of energy to do things again, like catching up my behind-the-schedule language study, reading some art theories and shopping daily life necessities online (as doing research, finding out the best price and free-shipping to my dorm), visiting my relatives who just came to U.S. this week, and also learning to cook. :)

All right, back to the topic. Sequoia National Park is located in the north of Los Angeles, about 5 hours drive from our home. In fact, it took us longer time than that as we chose a very windy mountain road, which almost made everyone sick in the car. Right next to Sequoia NP is Kings Canyon NP, where we stayed for the first night. We stayed in a cabin, as you might see the pictures (please see the Photos). It looks nice and romantic, doesn't it? In fact, our experience with it was not too good. While we were checking in, someone reported that the whole village suddenly had a blackout, so you can imagine how it feels like living in mountains without electricity...no hot water, no bath, no light, no heater.... It was freezing at night. Fortunately Dad brought a flashlight, otherwise we almost couldn't see anything in the night. From another angle, it was more like real a adventure. We used to enjoy modern facilities even though we were deeply inside the mountain, so this time it was, again, back to the primitive life~

I've visited at least 8 national parks, but each time, the beauty of nature and spectacular geographic features always surprise me. This time it's the massive forest and huge trees impress me. Sequoia is a name of a specific kind of tree; it belongs to redwood families. Because of its soft wood (almost like papers), it has very limited use to humans, which saved it from being chopped. The most famous giant sequoia tree is called General Sherman (see Photos), the largest tree in the world, in terms of wood volume. It has lived 2,000 years...witnessing so many changes on earth through so many years. It's hard to tell how big it is from the picture, but you notice there are several tiny figures in front of the tree, you might have a good idea of it. Yet in the national park every tree is so tall, competing the height so eagerly, the General Sherman does not seem like an obviously outstanding winner. Apart from seeing the largest tree in the park, walking on the trails in forest alone is pleasant and wonderful . Once in a while, the cool breeze blew toward us lightly, a perfect vacation resort in a dog-day summer. (L.A. was extremely hot during those days, over 100 F or 40 C degrees.)

Other attraction of interests include the gem-like rich meadow --- Crescent Meadow, Tunnel Log (cars can drive through), Tharp Log (where Indians used to live inside the tree), Moro Rock (a very scary climbing if you have acrophobia, but of course the rewarding is great--- endless beautiful high mountains just ahead of you. I love it though I hate climbing so high with only mental bars to prevent from falling), the Mineral King(extremely winding road, 598 turns in 25 miles, you have to make a turn almost every 15 seconds, very challenging drive)...Mineral King was named by 19th century prospectors searching for silver. Now looking back at the history, it was amazing to imagine the prospectors' effort to explore the mountains with simple tools just for searching silver. The desire for money drove people crazy.

I love more and more to appreciate nature. Nature left numerous traces of geographic changes on earth; I'm just stunned by the invisible and strong natural power and the aboriginal tribes who managed to survive. I feel humble before It.

Pictures

Our Cabin Crescent Meadow

General Sherman Tharp Log

Chicago

Mon, 09 Apr 2007 03:21:51 GMT

I started complaining about the weather in Chicago from the first day.

As I walked out of the airport to see my friend, Jason and his girlfriend, I couldn't believe my eyes--- it had flurries! Isn't it spring? I had to wear heavy coat again just like in winter. Through the whole trip, the temperature was always around 28F~38F (it's a windy city, so in fact everyone felt colder). The happiest time on my first day was to stay inside the Starbucks on Michigan Ave, eating tasty popcorns buying from the store next door. The popcorn is excellent! Believe me, you'll find it special and love it! It has two flavors, one is cheese and the other one is caramel. I couldn't stop eating it even though at the risk of getting fat. The Chicagoan pizza is also delicious, thick and rich, yummy! (Thanks for Jason's generous treat!)

The weather was so cold and gloomy, I really wanted to go back to Los Angeles where sun shines a year around. But of course, I had to give the University of Chicago a chance, to find out if it's worthy to endure such weather. I felt that the weather would be a challenge for me in graduate study. Peter, who studied in the University of Chicago for two years, after all transferred back to the Stanford University, as the weather was too depressing. He claimed that he is a Californian guy. I don't know if I will feel the same or not. (I should think more about people living in Russia, Iceland, Canada, Alasak...they're my model to survive in severe weather condition.) The geographic traits in Ilinois are also very different from those in California, which is surrounded by high mountains and the Pacific ocean. The land is so flat that you can look very far.

Two days later, I decided to accept the offer. The contrast between people inside the department and the outside weather is so strong --- the weather is so chilly but people are so warm and nice. I especially like the interdisciplinary program in the department. The faculty encourage students to be flexible, learning more outside major field, which is also great for job market. Everyone vividly talked, laughed, enthusiastically exchanged opinions...Other new students are all American students. Four of them are New Yorkers (plus smokers), one from San Francisco (Berkeley); almost all of them are from Ivy schools. One of non-Ivy school students is an Egyptian-American girl, majoring in Islamic art. She has interesting family background and she went to Cairo for a year. We quickly became good friends and talked a lot. I told myself, yes, this is the right I wanna stay. Knowing that I am the new student, other chinese art graduate students also came to see me and talk to me. On the second day, two gradaute students showed us around the campus; finally I had a better idea of how big the school is. I like the old-style architecture on campus (you can find a picture below). Hope I can get a room that has a window, so that in winter days, while I am studying, I can look out of my window, seeing snow falling down from the sky.

On the one hand, I don't want to leave Richard for long; on the other hand, I look forward to the new life in Chicago. Richard told my friend that I was just gone for three days, but he felt like I have been gone for a year. What a sweet husband! If UCLA had offered me a better financial aid package, perhaps I would be more likely to stay here. However, rich/ private schools have more resources and support for graduate students; that's why students are generally more competitive. Of course UCLA is a great public school, but I am not sure if it has as many resources as top private schools. I'll move to Chicago in September. Any friend who wants to visit Chicago, welcome!!!

Chicago downtown has a lot of public arts, and quite often many art-related activities are held, especially during summer time. It's a city of art.

p.s. After I promised to go to the University of Chicago, I like UCLA more and more! Prof. Lee at UCLA is so nice and friendly! She often talks to me after class, giving me advice in academic matters and life. I would be very happy to work with her.

Pictures:

1. Art History Department Entrance

2. Gallery of the Art Institute of Chicago, the top 1 art school in the U.S.

3. Houses inside the University of Chicago.

4. Installation Art inside the Millennium Park in downtown Chicago

5. Installation Art at Grant Park

6. Looking out from the Art Institute of Chicago

7. Caillebotte's most famous painting, Rainy Day in Paris.

8. Me and the Millennium egg

U2, Joshua Tree and me --- desert fever

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 01:37:47 GMT

1987年，愛爾蘭搖滾樂團U2到南加州的沙漠區Joshua Tree尋找下一張專輯的創作靈感。

這是他們首次嘗試將人們對某地的印象與情感與音樂連結，也就是將Joshua Tree的印象與他們的音樂，作視覺上與聽覺上強烈結合。在這張專輯中，他們也首次嘗試融合歐洲搖滾樂與美國靈魂樂、民俗樂風格，另帶有一點藍調與舞曲風格。在歌詞創作方面，歌詞中有46次提到與水相關的字詞，包括rain, raining, rainfall, flood, water, well, sea, ocean, river, 17次提到與沙漠相關字詞，如desert, dry, plain, heat, dust, sunlight, the sun, etc. 沙漠與水在此象徵生命與死亡，失去與救贖，這是這張專輯最重要的隱喻，專輯中一首歌One Tree Hill是為哀悼主唱好友Greg Carroll逝世而創作，主唱Bono為失去好友痛心不已，音樂如同他的救贖。

這張專輯發行後，成為U2最受歡迎的專輯之一，全球銷售量超過一千萬張，1989被滾石音樂雜誌評選為史上百大最佳音樂專輯的第3名，1988年獲得美國Grammy Award年度最佳專輯獎。主打歌曲Where Streets Have No Names, I still Haven't Found What I'm Looking for與With or Without You 連續數週蟬聯英美澳等地流行音樂排行榜冠軍。

20年後的今日，我和Richard一起到Joshua Tree National Park參觀，很遺憾的是，我們忘了把這張專輯帶上，若能在開車途中一邊聽U2的歌曲一邊看沙漠風景，更能體會U2的創作。音樂家擅長將情感轉換成音符，而藝術家則擅長轉換成視覺表現，我既非音樂家亦非藝術家，但我的感受力能體會他們的創作心情。週末的Joshua Tree氣溫非常高，即使現在只是春天，南加州氣溫意外飆到近30度高溫（不過一下子便結束了），在乾燥的沙漠地帶，強烈的陽光和無雲的土耳其藍天空，植物難以生長，沿途多為岩石，經過一億年風蝕雨蝕，已毫無稜角；沒有動物，只有幾隻蜥蜴爬過碎石地帶，整座國家幾乎被生命力強韌的Joshua Tree霸佔，然而單調的景色帶有純粹的美感令我著迷。

為什麼喜歡沙漠呢？原因和U2很接近，因為沙漠中看到生命力強勁的植物，想像百年前曾在此生活過的印地安人與自然奮鬥的景象，然而我也看到死亡，除了仙人掌、Joshua Tree、和矮矮的灌木叢，幾乎沒有植物或動物能熬得過這種惡劣的氣候環境。除此之外，因為平坦的沙漠地形，自然界的變化看的更清楚，日出日落的色彩變化--- 從亮黃色、橘色、淡紫色、到帶有藍色的橘色，色彩炫麗地反映在大片天空中，是很難忘的視覺經驗，同時晴天、雨天、陰天都有不同的樣貌。第一次感覺到與天空這麼接近。

Joshua Tree National Park不全部是平坦地形，園中有三種生態環境，在地勢比較高的地方我們能登高俯瞰附近的平原（如Keys View），我們從園區北方入口一路開到南方入口，沿途盡是綿延不絕的山脈，非常壯觀非常breath-taking。我拍照了，但是我傳達不出在自然前我多麼渺小的感覺。相機的邊框限制只能選取部分自然，360度的立體感難以表現。

對大部人來說Joshua Tree National Park不是很好玩的國家公園，單調的沙漠景色很快會讓人無聊，而且連園中僅有的兩座綠洲都很不是起眼，翻山越嶺走路走個兩三小時甚至六小時，結果看到不怎樣甚至快乾掉的小綠洲，大概會有上當的感覺吧，或許，我們往往對綠洲產生過多美好的期待。不過若你能停留久一點，觀賞日出、日落的壯觀景色，將會不虛此行。接近日落時，我們開車離開園區，我回頭一看，夕陽將身後的樹林、房屋、道路都灑上橘色。Sunddenly, I cave in the beauty of sunset, truly and deeply.

圖片：

U2 Joshua Tree的專輯封面與其他歌詞內頁的照片。

照片中那棵獨樹一格的Joshua Tree在九０年代已不在。

Mt. San Jacinto State Park

Mon, 15 Jan 2007 19:12:10 GMT

Located in southern California, it takes about 2-hour drive from L.A. to Palm Spring. An easy access to natural breath for urban people like us.

The most exciting experience is to take the aerial trammway, which climbs up to 8517 feet height. The tram rotates 360 degrees, so everyone has equal chance to view whole scenery (though at first we felt a little scary). But the cheap electronic music played on the tram didn't relentlessly stimulate more adventurous imagination. Gradually we saw mountains covered by white snow; with the perfect sunshine in southern California, everything looked so attractive. I was especially excited. It isn't the first time I see snow though, it's the first time I see snow in such a beautiful natural setting. 4 winters ago the snow I experienced in NYC fell down from a gray sky, gently in a melancholic tone, while the snowstorm in Washington D.C. was too ferocious.

We tried to hike for one hour, but it was harder than we expected; plus, we forgot to bring water with us. I was thirsty and tired; in order to avoid dying in deep and serene mountains, I decided to go back. In fact, with Richard, I always feel safe. I think that's one of the best reasons to get married: you know someone is always beside you to support you whatever happens; you don't need to worry about what if you appear too coward or too weak because he/ she just loves the way you are.

The Palm Springs downtown is a well-designed area, good for taking a relaxing walk around stylish shops and restaurants. Being so close to deserts, a winter walk in Palm Springs is chanllenging; however, summer might be too hot to walk comfortably either (up to 100F degrees).

Richard and I plan to come back again on a weekend night in early summer, enjoying the nightlife in Palm Springs, dancing and drinking. I look forward to it. :)

By the way, after this trip I found an article on L.A. Times that gives us good suggestion on cold-weather preparation. That's very useful. Here you are:

1. Use artificial tears, because humidity drops at high altitudes. Wear polarized sunglasses.

2. Dress in layers. Be sure you have gloves, socks and boots that will keep you warm enough.

3. Keep up regular cardiovascular and strength training routine.

4. To avoid getting skier's cough, cover you mouth loosely with a scarf or mask and drink plenty of liquids. Breathing cold, dry air can narow your airways, especially during exercise.

5. Moisturize. Find a good moisturizer with a sun-screen, preferably with an SPF30. Creams are richer, they have more emollient that holds onto the water.

6. Drink plenty of water, eight glasses daily. Eat regular meals, and be sure they are protein-rich with complex carbohydrates. A good breakfast before engaging in winter sports would include an egg, oatmeal, whole grain bread and some fruit. It's a myth that alchol warms you up.